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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2020 1:41 pm 
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https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6500-R302H


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2020 7:05 am 
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Anybody? Even a nope, I haven't?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2020 9:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:49 pm
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Location: Orange County, NC
Sorry, I have no experience with any hydro rollers. And I cant speak for anyone else, but I know if I dont have any experience with something, I tend to not reply. I also tend to not reply if a topic is aimed at one specific person.
I am seriously kicking around putting a hydro roller in a weezer that needs freshened up though. But it's an old block and will need link bar lifters instead of the factory style.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2020 9:45 am 
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kv racing wrote:
Sorry, I have no experience with any hydro rollers. And I cant speak for anyone else, but I know if I dont have any experience with something, I tend to not reply. I also tend to not reply if a topic is aimed at one specific person.
I am seriously kicking around putting a hydro roller in a weezer that needs freshened up though. But it's an old block and will need link bar lifters instead of the factory style.


Thanks. I also have a old non-roller 351W block (sorry, not a C!) but used a Crane small base circle cam with the bolt-in tray and OEM Ford hydro-roller lifters and dog-bone bars. That was circa '93. Runs great but poops out at about 5,800 rpm with valve float.

Today, the way to go is with the drop-in (linked) hydro roller lifters, not available back then, and a standard base circle hydro roller cam. No tray nor factory dog-bones needed. Lighter too I'm told.

My question though was based on Ford's own fess-up that the OEM lifters do pump up kinda' early as their own dyno testing show. That addtional 300-400 rpm rise and better valvetrain control is what I'm looking for w/o the need (maybe) for a.) a new has standard base circle cam and drop-in lifters or b.) beehive springs and button retainers or (c.) the most expensive route, a.+b.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2020 2:13 pm 
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Sure have, but the standard ones will go to 6500 without a problem.

If yours is kicking over at 5800, I'd be looking at the spring pressures, cam lobe design, or combination of the two.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2020 2:27 pm 
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blykins wrote:
Sure have, but the standard ones will go to 6500 without a problem.

If yours is kicking over at 5800, I'd be looking at the spring pressures, cam lobe design, or combination of the two.


Got it and thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2020 12:29 pm 
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machoneman wrote:
kv racing wrote:
Sorry, I have no experience with any hydro rollers. And I cant speak for anyone else, but I know if I dont have any experience with something, I tend to not reply. I also tend to not reply if a topic is aimed at one specific person.
I am seriously kicking around putting a hydro roller in a weezer that needs freshened up though. But it's an old block and will need link bar lifters instead of the factory style.


Thanks. I also have a old non-roller 351W block (sorry, not a C!) but used a Crane small base circle cam with the bolt-in tray and OEM Ford hydro-roller lifters and dog-bone bars. That was circa '93. Runs great but poops out at about 5,800 rpm with valve float.

Today, the way to go is with the drop-in (linked) hydro roller lifters, not available back then, and a standard base circle hydro roller cam. No tray nor factory dog-bones needed. Lighter too I'm told.

My question though was based on Ford's own fess-up that the OEM lifters do pump up kinda' early as their own dyno testing show. That addtional 300-400 rpm rise and better valvetrain control is what I'm looking for w/o the need (maybe) for a.) a new has standard base circle cam and drop-in lifters or b.) beehive springs and button retainers or (c.) the most expensive route, a.+b.


I've tested stock 5.0 lifters with the stock hardware vs Crane tie bar style lifters in a Cleveland on the dyno and found zero difference in performance. When your cam was ground to the smaller base circle they probably used the same master as they would use on a full size cam. This keeps the lift the same but reduces the duration thus making the lobe more "radical". Maybe its just a little too aggressive for your springs.

If you know that your loads are correct you could experiment with a little longer pushrod and adjust the lifters to a point just slightly, maybe .005 up from bottomed out. This will limit the amount they can collapse at high rpm and it might help it to rev higher.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2020 9:08 am 
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Thanks Dave. I just might try that idea along with new springs as the current ones, not run hard or long, are still 20 years old.


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