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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 11:54 pm 
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I’ve been collecting parts for the 408C fox body build and the next big item is the rear end. With the availability of fairly inexpensive bolt in 9 inch housings ($350), it looks like I can build a 9 inch as cheap than a 8.8. Especially if I use my current 3.89 Detroit Locker setup in it. If I use the 8.8 I have to get new ends welded on or use c clip eliminators.

This will be a pump gas street/strip car probably in the 10.50 et range. How much extra hp will the 9” take? This is a 525-550 or so crank hp setup with a C4.

What would you run on a budget? Would like to use a cheap rear disc brake conversion too.

Thanks,
Tom


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 6:26 am 
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You will lose a few hp to the 9", but from parts availability, maintenance, and strength standpoints, you just can't beat them.

I'd do it in a heart beat.....and have.....

I had a '90 LX V8 with a 9" Ford conversion.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 10:06 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2012 3:54 pm
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mach72 wrote:
I’ve been collecting parts for the 408C fox body build and the next big item is the rear end. With the availability of fairly inexpensive bolt in 9 inch housings ($350), it looks like I can build a 9 inch as cheap than a 8.8. Especially if I use my current 3.89 Detroit Locker setup in it. If I use the 8.8 I have to get new ends welded on or use c clip eliminators.

This will be a pump gas street/strip car probably in the 10.50 et range. How much extra hp will the 9” take? This is a 525-550 or so crank hp setup with a C4.

What would you run on a budget? Would like to use a cheap rear disc brake conversion too.

Thanks,
Tom

550 hp. street/strip and an auto tranny? The 8.8 is good to go.

But, if you intend to do a lot of drag racing with real slicks and/or add more hp later, the 9" rear is the way to go.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:12 pm 
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A couple of simple tips/tricks will make the 8.8 work. First and foremost , use a select fit , solid spacer for the pinion bearing preload. That one simple mod is worth it's weight in gold. Next would be use 31 spline axles ! Don't try and fool yourself into thinking you don't need them. You DO. Last would be an aftermarket housing brace ( front or rear). That shoulld make it live.
Randy


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 2:30 pm 
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Only thing I don't like about 8.8"s is c-clips.....if you break an axle, it will leave you. You can get c-clip eliminators for 8.8's, but by the time you go to girdles, eliminators, etc, etc., a 9" doesn't look too bad.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 8:18 am 
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9" 100%. My 31 spline 9" stock case, Peyton housing, MW axles, Richmond gear has been in the car since 2000. I've got 3.975 x 10^25 rounds on it and it looks new inside. Lotsa parts, easy gear swap, etc, etc. There is your "budget" - do it once, do it right. The Mustang got a Currie Housing ($400) and Strange axles/spool/bearings/studs ($525) and a 4.56 Richmond set ($280) back in 2006. Also zero maintenance. If we don't make 250+ passes/year on slicks at the track it's been a real bad year. If you have a few more dollars, you buy a Strange nodular case and you're done to easy 750+ HP or so, maybe more. Or, deburr your stock case, add ARP studs for the main caps and pinion support, Yukon install kit with solid spacer/shims+Timkin bearings and a name gear set - Richmond/Moser/Strange. I've seen stock cases last years at the around 600 HP level. Do not use house brand gears IMHO. I do my own setups. The main weak point in a stock case IMHO is the rear pinion support. I especially deburr that.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 9:27 am 
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Thanks for the input. How bad is the rear suspension geometry changed with the higher mount location on the 9 inch?

It is looking like I can build a 9 inch for about the same money as the 8.8. Of course it helps that I can use the nod case Detroit Locker 3.89 31 spline Carrier out of my Mach 1. I do need to decide what brake setup I would use. I’m going to look into the explorer based kits out there. Any brake input appreciated. I’m a little concerned about keeping the brakes balanced. I would have to use the fix body front discs for a while until I could afford to upgrade.


Anyone know how much more power the 9 inch will take than the 8.8?

Thanks,
Tom


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 11:58 am 
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Can't help with rear disks - I use "small ends" and the stock 10" drums on the cars here. Never felt a need to go disk in the back. Single piston calipers with organic pads from mid 70s Fords on the front. Both cars use manual brakes, no power. No stopping issues at all. Also, I haven't had to service the rear drums in many years. If you get a 9" housing built, then get the large ends and there are several "large bearing" 2.5" offset disk kits available.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2018 11:24 pm 
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Location: Texas
For what it's worth, years ago my buddy put together a junk yard 302 with a home made turbo set up in his Fox. C4 trans and factory 8.8 rear end. Car layed down 630hp 650tq at the wheels. Now he went the cheap ass way and welded the side gears but he did put a girdle pan on it and C clip eliminators. Car ran 6.0 to 6.2 at 116mph 1/8 mile with 3.27 gears and got 15mpg. So with your power expectations, I see no reason not to run the 8.8 . Since you say it's going to be a street/strip deal, only thing I see being an issue will be which differential locker you go with.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 12:01 am 
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Well guys I decided to go with the 9 inch. I’m able to build the 9 inch using a 3.89 gear/Detroit Locker /Daytona pinion support etc that I already own for about the same cost as the 8.8 using a spool. I’ve ordered the housing and axles. I appreciate the input given by the forum.
Thanks,
Tom


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