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ALL things related to the Ford 351C
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 4:17 pm 
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I guess I'm set in my ways. This one of those discretionary things, but I can't count how many Clevelands I've assembled without them. Just never seen a need for them.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 4:33 pm 
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blykins wrote:
I guess I'm set in my ways. This one of those discretionary things, but I can't count how many Clevelands I've assembled without them. Just never seen a need for them.


Sorta like the oil slinger on the crank.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 4:42 pm 
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Exactly. A 50 year old remnant of poor seal material and old timing set designs.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 5:57 pm 
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DaveMcLain wrote:
I've never seen the valley tray be any more leak prone than any other gaskets and I think its probably more durable than some sort of "high performance" gasket especially in a situation where the intake also has water such as an Oldsmobile or a Ford 460.

They seem to work fine on big Chrysler engines too but one time I did see one that was puffed up like a cooked container of Jiffy Pop after an explosion in the crankcase.
Im of same opinion as u Dave.
I've only had a couple intakes give me issues with sealing. Like i said I'd trim the metal intake flanges and fit with good gaskets. The ol 400 would sometimes generate a ton of intake heat with cast intakes you had to do as much as possible to keep heat away.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 6:00 am 
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You start finding what's necessary or unnecessary when you start messing with aftermarket parts.

In the FE world, you can't fit the little factory rocker arm drip tins on with some intakes, or some rocker arms. Likewise, you can't fit the lifter valley pan in with roller lifters. Pretty soon, you've done enough aftermarket FE's to realize that the engines work perfectly fine without all that extra stuff.....then you start wondering what it was there for in the first place. IMO, all of that stuff goes back to generators and rope seals.

In addition to that, those 2V and 4V Cleveland turkey pans will not work with all aftermarket head port locations. That's when you find out that there are a lot of race engines out there running without them and doing just fine. Yes, I understand that Cleveland intakes are not wet and I understand that they get hot....I've seen them heat soak on the dyno. However, for a drag race engine that runs at 130-140°F water temp, it's not as much of a concern.

We have also gotten past the era of nylon timing chain gears and we're onto billet timing gears, double row timing chains, along with Viton/rubber crank seals.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 11:07 am 
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That's all true brent but like i say. If its airgap intake from ebrock then don't use. If its a Torker or similar i would modify and use.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 11:19 am 
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Again, I'll state that it's a discretionary thing and I'm not arguing with anyone. I'm just stating what has worked for me over countless engines.

As with most everything else regarding engines, there's more than one "legal" way of getting to a point. Each person has their own way.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 5:39 pm 
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Tried it multiple times, it didnt work any time, wont waste my time or money on them again regardless of what intake I run.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 6:00 pm 
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LOL, when I ordered gaskets for my first 351C from Summit, I got the Felpro number with the big pan. One look "Ain't nobody got time for that" and back it went. Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal is what I typically use, or FelPro with the blue port seal. Both seem to work about the same, both are strictly "do not fold, spindle, or mutilate".

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 3:29 pm 
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Anytime you can minimize intake heat you control alot of jetting variables. The tray is a easy non expensive mod that's effective. Its up to the builder to decide how critical he wants to be. These guys in link below go to great lengths to do just that. Super stock guys will go to great lengths to do what they can to keep hot oil off intake. Even ford must've seen the benefit in production engines in controlling intake temp and the resulting jetting changes required. http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopi ... ay#p735776. For the original poster of you are concerned about getting the most out of engine with minimal cost hard to go wrong with tray. If its a air gap style intake forget all this information. Any other style intake why not? You will see in link how they modify pans very similar to what i do.You can cut the existing pan to fit very close. Glue into end rails and they fit nice.


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