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PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 7:55 am 
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If the oil pump is in the front and the lifters are fed from the rear, then it's the same deal....it's going to be priority main oiling.

Most of your lifter manufacturers will not advise blocking off oil to the lifters, whether it be an EDM flat tappet lifter, or a pressure fed needle bearing or bushing lifter.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2017 2:05 am 
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Gday,
If you get bored have a look back in this section of the forum where i put a post up called 'solid flat tappet oil metering '

Cheers
Paul


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 9:27 am 
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Agreed that oil mods are not a must do for the sub 7000 camp but I also believe that improving oiling quality is a nice touch of quality when going that little extra and certainly can never hurt. I've done strokers and done nothing oiling wise other than making sure clearances are right and I've done near stockers and done quite a bit oiling wise when someone requests a very high quality blueprint type build. If its something for myself i always experiment with often kooky ideas just to see 'what does what'.

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My 1st port of call if doing nothing else just opening and blending the pump to filter gallery , then if carrying on the filter adaptor thread then the turn from adaptor drilling in the block into the gallery leading forward.

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Then possibly some extras

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 9:36 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 9:48 am 
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Brazed bolt on the pickup is a great dented oil pan bearing saver!

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 10:28 am 
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You made it to the forum, Craig! Thanks for joining, sir.

Oil mods look good.

I've found the oil pump/block hole to be pretty sufficient for most builds. I don't really touch them, other than breaking the edges.

Tim Meyer suggests that you put the front cam bearing in so that it's pretty much flush with the front block face. When I use his bearings and that's the case, I will modify the cam thrust plate by continuing the grooves/notches all the way across the ID of the plate to the other side.

I also plug the big hole in the #1 main saddle, as you have shown.

Seems like most of us all do it the same way. :)

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 11:19 am 
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blykins wrote:
You made it to the forum, Craig! Thanks for joining, sir.

Oil mods look good.

I've found the oil pump/block hole to be pretty sufficient for most builds. I don't really touch them, other than breaking the edges.

Tim Meyer suggests that you put the front cam bearing in so that it's pretty much flush with the front block face. When I use his bearings and that's the case, I will modify the cam thrust plate by continuing the grooves/notches all the way across the ID of the plate to the other side.

I also plug the big hole in the #1 main saddle, as you have shown.

Seems like most of us all do it the same way. :)


Yes it let me in this time ! :lol:

Yes the oil pump to filter hole I think is fine diameter wise unlike the FE. I just dont like the abrupt sharp turn it has so i get in there (same on a 385bb) and open up the 'short turn' then just flare out the opening that feeds the filter, it makes me feel good!

I groove the cam bearings myself, freely admit i got that idea from Tim Meyer and I would buy from him but being in Australia its logistically easier to do that myself.
On that front bearing I dont get hung up on having the bearing flush, I prefer to have the entire parallel OD of the bearing supported in the bore of the block, seeing the bearings chamfer is often slightly different and the blocks chamfer can be quite different in depth block to block this puts the bearing in a slightly different position in each block. So long as i have an oil feed opening from block to bearing thats on size and the bearing is supported fully by the block and of course the back of the bearing is on the front cam journal fully then all is well.
I dont know Tims opinion for the flush bearing but have heard others say not being flush does not support the front journal and others say it creates an oil leak. Im not convinced of either but always happy to hear thoughts and opinions.

So on the cam thrust plate if i understand correctly, you are blending the groove that carries oil from the front bearing into the ID of the plate and around the front of the plate?

Plugging that big front saddle hole is another so so one for me. I have run the same engine and internals without and then with that plug and found no difference in pressure or bearing wear etc, but, that big hole doesnt need to be there so i basically plug it just for the sake of it.

On most engines i do something simple to the pickup to avoid a total oil starvation uf the pan gets dented as I have seen a couple of destroyed engines due to this!

Well its 1.48am here, im off to bed !
Cheers,

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 12:31 pm 
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I think there’s a lot of things that work. All of us do things based on experience and obviously if it doesn’t work, we change. :-)

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 6:17 pm 
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^^ too true !

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 5:43 pm 
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Hey guys,

So just to recap, how far in for Meyer #1 cam bearing? Level with chamfer on my block or a specific measurement preferred?

Also I need to replace pushrods to suit new hyd roller.
Option 1, 5/16 with .83 wall and 0.80" oil hole one end, 0.040" on the other to restrict oil?
Option 2, 5/16 .110" wall and 0.100" oil holes both ends?
Engine will only be spinning to 6200 max probably, so apart from proper bearing clearances which I have jotted down and a standard oil pump, nothing else really needs doing?
Melling or sealed power oil pump?

Apologies for all the questions but just want to make sure things are done right.

Cheers,

Rob.


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