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 Post subject: Engine temp readngs.
PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2020 6:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
Posts: 1238
Location: Texas
Well I'm wondering which of my temperature reading methods is more accurate? Yesterday when I was running my car testing the alternator I was naturally watching the temp gauge. I have a Robert Shaw 180 t-stat So at 180 degrees I turn my fan on. I was in my garage and the outside temp was well in the 100 degree range with the heat index. Temp was fine for a long time but then it started to slowly creep up. it was at 210-215 on the gauge. I was finished with all my alternator testing so I shut her down. So immediately I took my Raytec laser temp gun and was measuring every thing I could. Heads said between 195-198 oil pan and filter were 180ish t-stat housing 180ish headers 280ish. I wonder if my cheap O'Reilly temp gauge just sucks? I've had this gauge for a few years now but maybe - just maybe I should have questioned it after the first 6 months I had to give it the "love thump" for the needle to work.
My temp gauge
https://www.iequus.com/8242.html


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 Post subject: Re: Engine temp readngs.
PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2020 9:32 am 
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Posts: 1369
Time for an autometer mechanical - sport comp at least, depending on your interior color design. The Phantom in the dragster (3 yrs) and even the Sport Comp in the Falcon which is at least 10 years old read pretty accurate based on temp gun readings. Also, for Texas I'd recommend a 195. You'll give up a bit of power but the street temp will likely be more stable.

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 Post subject: Re: Engine temp readngs.
PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2020 6:47 pm 
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Posts: 1238
Location: Texas
Ya im defiantly gonna get me an Autometer. You know I have been battling a cooling issue with my car for some time. My gauge in it now was reading 215 or so and my temp gun at front and back of cylinder heads were 195-198. Hopefully and I say this with lots of hope, maybe my cooling issues are mainly due to a bad gauge and maybe, just maybe the cooling system isnt as bad as I think----maybe. Thursday Im changing another a/c compressor on a friends 97 3/4 ton Chevy. Last week I changed his a/c compressor on his 92 GMC- easy $120 for me. After i finish his truck im headed to Summit. They mailed me a $15 speed points from when I bought the alternator/other stuff and 8 point roll bar kit. So i might just have to splurge a little on a great gauge with all that extra doe.


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 Post subject: Re: Engine temp readngs.
PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 7:40 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
Posts: 1238
Location: Texas
ok so Friday i will get an Autometer temp gauge.I got too looking at the engine and was wondering "where is the best place to take the temp at"? I remember my stock water pump had a temp sensor but was never hooked up. it also has one below the thermostat. I have always put the probe here
Imagewater temp g 1 by 359daddy, on Flickr

But then a guy got to thinking- (yes I watch Vice Grip Garage) and was wondering if a better place would be here in the block where the heater hose use to go? I know its not tapped but a guy just wonders.
Imagewater temp g2 by 359daddy, on Flickr

Lastly, I'm sure this question has probably been asked 1,437,888 times but if I don't use that port on the block for the temp sensor, then what's the best, easiest or most common way to block it off? Water pump is easy, pipe plug. I think the one on the block is only pressed in. Also I read on a BBF 385 series its recommended to cap off the port on the intake that joins the intake to the water pump because all it does is feed hot coolant back in the water pump and never gets cooled. Is this similar to what mine is doing here with my hideous U shaped hose I have wanted gone for like 20 years? Thanks for any help/info.
Imagewater temp g 3 by 359daddy, on Flickr


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 Post subject: Re: Engine temp readngs.
PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 8:40 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:49 pm
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Location: Orange County, NC
The Sport Comp in my car sticks first thing every time to the track. I have to drive around to get heat in the motor, and it wont read anything, then all of the sudden it will shoot up to over 160*. It works fine the rest of the day after that though.

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 Post subject: Re: Engine temp readngs.
PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 8:59 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 12:02 pm
Posts: 398
Where your temp sensor is now is fine. That's where the factory gauge was.

The pipe plug in your water pump that is below your port was a temperature switch that changed the vacuum on the distributor advance. Leave it plugged, unless you're stock, you'll likely not use it. The switch basically changed the timing between a hot and cold engine.

As long as your water pump and thermostat has a functional recirculation port, you can eliminate your heater loop. Some water pumps don't have the port linking the pump inlet to the bottom of the thermostat. If yours doesn't, then you need to keep that loop there so that you don't dead head the pump. I believe the weiand pumps are the ones without the port in the pump.

Truthfully, you want the recirculation loop in the pump. With the engine hot and the thermostat fully open, the thermostat will block off the recirculation loop and the full water pump flow will go through the radiator. Looping the heater hoses like you have them, there will always be hot coolant recirculating back into the pump without being cooled off.

If I were you, I'd make sure the water pump is drilled for the recirculation port, and then I'd remove the barbs and install pipe plugs, or leave the barbs and put coolant bypass caps over them. I wouldn't have the loop in there like how you have it.

But you have to have that loop if the water pump doesn't have the bypass port drilled.

Clear as mud?


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 Post subject: Re: Engine temp readngs.
PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 10:00 am 
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kv racing wrote:
The Sport Comp in my car sticks first thing every time to the track. I have to drive around to get heat in the motor, and it wont read anything, then all of the sudden it will shoot up to over 160*. It works fine the rest of the day after that though.


LOL, mine's getting like that. A little thump-thump required to true the needle sometimes.

Nova, on the Falcon the temp sender is same place - front of block. On the dragster, because of the motor plate, it's in the hole formerly occupied by the heater nipple. Both work.

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http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


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 Post subject: Re: Engine temp readngs.
PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 4:18 pm 
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Location: Orange County, NC
booyah45828 wrote:
As long as your water pump and thermostat has a functional recirculation port, you can eliminate your heater loop. Some water pumps don't have the port linking the pump inlet to the bottom of the thermostat. If yours doesn't, then you need to keep that loop there so that you don't dead head the pump. I believe the weiand pumps are the ones without the port in the pump.



That is correct. I just went out and looked, and the two Milodon pumps I have on the shelf dont have it either.


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 Post subject: Re: Engine temp readngs.
PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 4:22 pm 
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I just punched 4 3/16 holes in my thermostat for use with the electric pump. Seems fine in testing. The dragster just "restricts" flow by using -12 AN hoses on both pump suction and upper block to radiator. No thermostat in that engine.

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http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


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 Post subject: Re: Engine temp readngs.
PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 6:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
Posts: 1238
Location: Texas
Thanks guys.

booyah45828 Thats what I thought that sensor on the water pump was for.
Well this is my water pump. Im not sure what im suppose to be looking at for the port linking the pump inlet to the bottom of the thermostat Here is a picture of it and their web site. If I remember correctly my impeller is blue but I bought mine in 2012 along with 3 Robert Shaw 180 t-stats :D T-stats are pricey.

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/co ... water-pump

Imagewaterpump by 359daddy, on Flickr


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